Frequently Asked Questions

I've sown my seed...how long before I see plants?

Germination depends a little on the time of year and the weather, but on average it takes between 2 and 6 weeks for most of the seeds to germinate. Keep an eye out for little green hairs - these will be the grass seedlings. The wildflowers will be slightly behind them, and harder to distinguish from each other.

My meadow is growing...where are the flowers?

If you sowed your meadow in the spring...only the annual species will put on a show. You should expect most of the flowers to put in an appearance in May of the meadow's second year.

If you sowed your meadow in the autumn...expect to see all of the annuals, plus a few of the more vigorous perennial flowers like the ox-eye daisy in the first year.

Remember, unless you are sowing Bright Cornfield Annual Mixture, your meadow will take time to develop its balance.

Do I have to get rid of the grass to establish my wildflower meadow?

The short answer to this is yes...and no.

It is more difficult to establish a meadow without a clean slate, but it can be done provided the existing grass is knocked back hard enough to give the wildflowers a chance to gain a foothold and establish themselves.

The best way to do this is to harrow or rotovate the existing grass so that patches of open soil are created. Then broadcast the seed and roll or firm it in. Another method is to kill areas of grass with a herbicide and then scarify the surface so that the seed you are about to broadcast can get at the soil.

I want my meadow to grow fast...can I add fertilizer?

NO. When it comes to looking after a Bright Wild Flower meadow, we favour benign neglect. Most of the varieties in your meadow tube live a nutrient-poor lifestyle and like it that way. Meadows require patience, so get out that deck chair, sit back and relax.

Do I have to weed my meadow?

Perennial weeds like docks and nettles are a problem, especially when a meadow is a part of a bigger garden. You don't want them going to seed or spreading, so dig out the individual weeds by hand or spot spray with a glyphosphate weedkiller. Glyphosphate works by moving throught the leaves of a plant: it is deactivated by the soil, so it only kills plants it is sprayed on.

Once your meadow gets started, it should out-compete the annual weeds. Remember, many of these wildflowers are considered weeds when they grow in a farmer's field. A weed is just a plant in the wrong place.

I seem to have more ox-eye daisies and yarrow than anything else in my meadow. Why? And what can I do about it?

In a meadow's first year of establishment, really vigorous species like ox-eyes and yarrow can dominate. Don't worry. With time and annual cutting, the other species will stage a fightback and your meadow will achieve a more balanced blend of flowers.

What is the best method of cutting my meadow?

An early spring or late autumn secondary cut can be done with your standard lawn mower, but...

Cutting your fully-grown meadown with your standard lawn mower will keep your local mower repairman in business, and we advise against it. The traditional, CO2 neutral method would be a hand scythe - backbreaking, knee and calf scarring, but very satisfying.

If your meadow is petite and perfectly formed, everything from an electric strimmer to secateurs to hedge or edging shears will do the job nicely.

On larger garden meadows, a good tool hire company should have allen scythes that will fit through a pedestrian gate. A strimmer (ideally petrol) is another good alternative. If access isn't an issue, your standard tractor mower will make short work of your meadow.

I've mown my meadow...how long do I leave the cuttings to dry?

Leaving cuttings to dry in the sun for a day or two gives resident insects a chance to scarper.